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Drinkies: Rhubarb Rhapsody

6/29/2017

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Rhubarb Rhapsody
Rhubarb Rhapsody - sweet, tart, and pretty as a picture!
The Occasion: Rhubarb season deserves celebrating, so drink ‘em if you got ‘em. This cocktail is made for day drinking, especially outdoors on a sunny day. 

Primarily regarded as a springtime fruit/vegetable, rhubarb is still showing up in gorgeous abundance at our local markets here in Chicago. If that’s true for you too, I recommend you buy a bunch and make a big batch of rhubarb simple syrup. Then you’ll be all set for cocktail-making long after the gorgeous red stalks disappear from the market. 
What Makes This Special? The pretty pink color grabs your attention first. And then the delicate flavor of the cocktail – not as sweet as you might imagine, and that’s a good thing!
Rhubarb RhapsodyHow about a refreshing Rhubarb Rhapsody? Don't mind if I do

​Serve With: A bowl of mixed nuts.

​Something simple yet rich to complement the light and refreshing cocktail.


​Set the Table: When your beverage boasts a vibrant color, as this one does, be sure to select glasses that will show it off to best advantage.

No patterns or competing colors, just simple clear beauty.

The Verdict: Light and refreshing, simple and satisfying. Sweet but overly much so. I think my position is clear. Give this a try! Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
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Rhubarb Rhapsody
Recipe by Ilise Goldberg
 
INGREDIENTS:
  • 1 ½ ounces gin
  • 1 ½ ounces rhubarb simple syrup
  • ½ ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • ½ teaspoon ginger simple syrup (optional)
  • 3 strips of lemon zest
 
DIRECTIONS:
  • Zest two lemon strips into a rocks glass. 
  • In a cocktail shaker with ice, shake all liquid ingredients until well chilled. 
  • Add a large ice cube to the glass and pour the cocktail into the glass. Garnish with one more strip of lemon zest.
 
Rhubarb Simple Syrup:
  • 5 large rhubarb stalks, washed and trimmed
  • 1 cup water
  • ½ cup sugar
 
  • Cut the rhubarb into one-inch pieces. 
  • Combine the water and sugar in a pan over high heat until the sugar dissolves. 
  • Add the rhubarb chunks and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, and let it simmer for 15 minutes.
  • Remove the mixture from heat and allow it to cool.
  • Strain the syrup into a container, and store it for up to two weeks in the refrigerator.  If making far in advance the simple syrup freezes well. 
 
Ginger Simple Syrup:
  • ¼ cup fresh ginger
  • 1 cup water
  • ½ cup sugar
 
  • Dice the ginger into small pieces. 
  • Combine the water and sugar in a pan over high heat until the sugar dissolves. 
  • Add the ginger and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, and let it simmer for 15 minutes.
  • Remove the mixture from heat and allow it to cool.
  • Strain the syrup into a container, and store it for up to two weeks in the refrigerator.  If making far in advance the simple syrup freezes well.  
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Food for the Fourth? Try our Top 5 Favorite BBQ Sides

6/28/2017

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Neighborhood Fireworks Show
View from our backyard - our neighborhood fireworks show is the best!
The Occasion: America’s Independence Day aka the 4th of July. Or frankly the occasion can be any summertime gathering of friends and family where eating and drinking are involved. 
What Makes These Top 5 Special? Regular readers of this blog know that I am not a recipe developer, instead I search among the oh-so-many recipes out there for the ones that tickle my taste buds, and then I add my personal flair with music, table tips, and more. I think I’ve got a pretty good nose for worthwhile recipes, and am always delighted to share the best of the best with my readers.
Today we’ll reveal the top 5 party-worthy dishes posted on Entertain the Possibilities.
​
These are the go-withs; read a little further to find links to other great food bloggers for some smoky, meaty BBQ standouts.
​ETP’s Top 5 – Popular Summer Recipes:
  • Mango Margarita – Goes down easily and so delicious!
  • Romesco Sauce with Grilled Vegetables – Inspired by our trip to Spain
  • Corn-Jalapeno Mini Muffins – Corn muffins go great with low-and-slow barbecue
  • Greek Panzanella Salad – This is a make-ahead masterpiece
  • Corn Husk-Smoked Salmon with Grilled Corn Salsa – Unusual cooking treatment results in an outstanding meal!
Awesome Recipes from Others:
  • Chicken Kabobs with Basil Chimichurri – from Serious Eats
  • Skirt Steak with Bloody Mary Tomato Salad – from Smitten Kitchen
  • Maple and Molasses Glazed Baby Back Ribs – from Steven Raichlen
  • Beer Can Chicken – from Simply Recipes
From our house to yours, we wish you a happy Independence Day with good friends and family around to help you celebrate. 
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What’s for Dinner? Minestrone Verde

6/26/2017

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Minestrone Verde
Minestrone Verde with a nice dollop of homemade pesto on top
What? Hot soup in the summertime? If it’s Minestrone Verde the answer is an emphatic YES, and here’s why: it's a farmer’s market in a bowl.

The Occasion: This soup is perfect for a light lunch or supper the same day you visit the farmer’s market, or when you find an especially fresh batch of local veggies in your grocery’s produce aisle. 
What Makes it Special? The abundance of fresh green veggies. Feel free to make substitutions, although the recipe from Cooking Light’s June issue is pretty great as-is. The filled tortellini; the delicate but flavorful broth; the dollop of pesto on top. Fact is, it’s all special.
Serve With: Crusty bread and the cheese of your choice. 
​​The Verdict: Love this! Fresh vegetables truly are the stars of the show although there’s fierce competition from the light but flavorful broth and the satisfying tortellini (or dumplings of your choice). You’ll have plenty of pesto left over. Use it for more soup, pasta salad, or alongside grilled chicken and fish. In a pinch you can use store-bought pesto, but as always fresh is best.
Print This Recipe- Minestrone Verde
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Minestrone Verde
Recipe source: Cooking Light
 
INGREDIENTS:
  • 1 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil (from about 3 bunches)
  • 2 tablespoons shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
  • 1 tablespoon pine nuts
  • 1 garlic clove, chopped
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
  • 2 cups thinly sliced leeks
  • 2 small zucchinis, sliced into half-moons
  • 4 cups unsalted chicken stock
  • 8 ounces refrigerated tortellini
  • 3 cups coarsely chopped fresh baby spinach (about 3 oz.)
  • 1 cup frozen green peas, thawed
  • 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
  • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
 
DIRECTIONS:
  • Process basil, cheese, pine nuts, and garlic in a food processor until finely chopped.
  • Add 1 1/2 tablespoons oil; process until very finely chopped and fully combined, stopping to scrape sides of bowl as necessary. Set aside.
  • Heat remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons oil in a medium Dutch oven over medium. Add leeks; cook, stirring often, until softened, about 6 minutes.
  • Stir in zucchini; cook, stirring occasionally, until zucchini is just tender but not browned, about 4 minutes.
  • Add chicken stock, and increase heat to medium-high. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer 8 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, cook tortellini in a stockpot of boiling water 3 minutes less than package directions, omitting salt and fat. Drain.
  • Add tortellini, spinach, and peas to soup. Cook until spinach is wilted, about 1 minute.
  • Stir in lemon juice and salt.
  • Ladle soup evenly into 4 bowls. Top each serving with pesto, and sprinkle evenly with pepper.
Minestrone Verde
Pesto is a great summer condiment. What else do you use it for? Tell all in the Comments
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The Rain in Spain – Travelogue Part 3 – Bilbao

6/23/2017

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Guggenheim Bilbao
Guggenheim Bilbao - you can see the Jeff Koons sculpture Tulips, and Tall Tree and the Eye by Anish Kapoor
I am trying to hang onto that vacation glow, basking in the memory of warm sunny days spent wandering charming Spanish towns for as long as I can. We’ve been home for over a month now and the realities of day-to-day life are a little too real, but it takes no more than a glance at the vacation photos and I am transported once again to Spain’s spectacular Catalonia and Basque regions.

Come with me, won’t you, to peruse the highlights of our four days in Bilbao, the final stop on our dream vacation. Read previous posts about our adventures in Barcelona and San Sebastián by clicking on the names. 
During the planning phase of this trip we were frequently asked, “Why Bilbao?” The short answer is: to visit the  Frank Gehry designed Guggenheim Museum by – it truly is spectacular. More on that shortly. 
But there’s more to Bilbao than the Goog. This city, the unofficial capital of Basque Country, is also known for its Casco Viejo (Old Quarter), foodie scene (pintxos are big here too), other museums, and vibrant greenspace along the river and in city parks.

Another city made for walking, we explored the charming twisty-turny walkways of the Old Quarter; strolled the expansive Doña Casilda Iturrizar Park near the Fine Arts Museum; and meandered along the Nervión River. Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
Spectator of Spectators by Equipo Cronica,Spectator of Spectators by Equipo Cronica, Bilbao Fine Arts Museum (photo: Ilise Goldberg)


​Although the Guggenheim receives top billing, Bilbao’s Fine Arts Museum – home to an important gathering of works by Basque artists and sculptors and a rotating schedule of visiting exhibitions – is quite impressive and worth a visit.

​We saw a Renoir exhibit on the theme of ‘Intimacy’ in addition to the museum’s permanent collection.

After snapping this quick shot we learned that photos are prohibited, but I think you’ll agree that this one is worth it.

Let’s get to the main event: the Guggenheim Bilbao. It’s easy to spend a whole day here and be richly rewarded for your time. TRAVEL TIP: Purchase tickets in advance, receive a specific entry time, and you’ll be issued an audio guide – no questions about whether you want it or not. Believe me, you want this. The audio guide is extremely well done, providing juicy details about the museum’s architecture, the exhibits, and the artists – not only the permanent collection but also the special exhibits.

Abstract Expressionism was on display during our visit, a movement about which I thought I knew a few things. May I just say, WOW, mind blown (in the best possible way), this was an amazing museum experience, engaging and informative on every level.

TRAVEL TIP: Fortify yourself with a lunch break in between exploring the special exhibit and permanent collections. With three onsite restaurants - a one-Michelin star fine dining restaurant (Nerua); the elegant yet approachable Bistró; and a casual snack bar – there’s something for everyone. Highly recommend the Bistró for a gourmet meal that is delicious and not too fancy.

Photos of the artworks are not permitted, but the museum’s atrium, exterior, and outdoor sculptures/ installations are fair game. Please click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
The other highlight of this part of our journey was a day-long private tour in the Rioja wine region, about an hour outside of Bilbao. We visited three wineries, had a sumptuous long lunch (with wine of course!), stopped for numerous photo ops and history lessons, and became friends with our wonderful guide Marta and driver Inaki. There are several tour companies working in this region; we enjoyed our experience with Thabuca Wine Tours.

I didn’t know much about Spanish wines before the trip and I still have a lot to learn. Luckily I’m a motivated student, and we brought home some fascinating study material. As in – sound of cork popping, luscious Rioja wine pouring into a glass … wait, what was I saying? I got distracted by my studies.

​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
We returned from our tour to find a beautiful sunset over Bilbao, the perfect finishing touch on the final day of our vacation. An early flight the next day sent us homeward bound, back to reality, and away from a little slice of Spanish paradise. After two weeks and three cities, I was ready to sleep in my own bed, but simultaneously wanted to stay on this holiday forever. We’ll be back someday, of that I am certain. 
​
Sunset in Bilbao
What are your favorite vacation activities – tours? museums? nature? shopping? Tell us in the Comments!
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Super Summer App -  Romesco Sauce with Grilled Vegetables

6/20/2017

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Romesco Sauce with Grilled Vegetables
One of our favorite Spanish starters - Romesco Sauce with Grilled Veggies
Inspired by our recent vacation in Spain*, we threw a dinner party where we attempted to recreate a few of the mouthwatering dishes we sampled while on the Iberian Peninsula. 

I found this recipe for Romesco sauce in Cooking Light’s June 2017 issue, but the inspiration comes from Bodega la Puntual in Barcelona’s El Born neighborhood, where we savored a fantastic version one evening.

* Question: At what point do I have to stop saying ‘recent’? We’ve been home a month already but I don’t want to let go of that carefree holiday vibe. Click the names to read all about our Barcelona and San Sebastián adventures. The Bilbao story will drop later this week.
The Playlist: Enjoy two very different tributes to Barcelona as you read on -- Barcelona Nights by Ottmar Liebert + Barcelona by George Ezra
The Occasion: This tasty appetizer can double as a side dish for summer parties when you’re planning to fire up the grill. (So that’s all of them, right?!)

Why This? Compared to typical appetizers found at the average BBQ this is a happy and healthy surprise. The sauce is super flavorful from the peppers and sherry vinegar with a hearty texture provided by ground almonds and rustic bread. Plus it’s another opportunity to eat more veggies. Good for you!
Romesco Sauce with Grilled Vegetables
Serve With: Choose the veggies that you like. We did zucchini and carrot planks, green onions, and asparagus. Any leftover Romesco sauce will be excellent served with grilled meats and seafood such as pork, chicken, and shrimp.

Set the Table: For BBQs and potlucks I like to set up one or two food tables so folks can serve themselves buffet-style. Spread them out to avoid a bottleneck. This dish works equally well on the Appetizers/Snacks table or with the Main Course. Maybe not the Dessert table, but hey, who am I to judge. I selected a big platter with a raised edge for the grilled vegetables – helps to catch any grilled juices or spilled sauce. Park a bowl of Romesco sauce right in the middle with a big spoon for scooping. 

Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.

The Verdict: I love this sauce, and I’m not alone. Every one of the party guests requested this recipe. You’re going to love it too. Hurry up and try it!
Print The Recipe- Romesco Sauce with Grilled Vegetables
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Romesco Sauce with Grilled Vegetables
Recipe source: Cooking Light June 2017 issue
 
INGREDIENTS:
  • 4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
  • 2 red bell peppers
  • 1 red jalapeño or Fresno chile
  • 1 (1 1/2-in.-thick) slice crusty bread
  • 5 tablespoons olive oil, divided
  • 1/3 cup Marcona almonds
  • 2 tablespoons sherry or red wine vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon smoked paprika
  • 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 ripe medium tomato, cored
  • 3-5 different vegetables for grilling – your choice; we like zucchini, carrots, asparagus, and onions; thick potato slices are also nice

​DIRECTIONS:
  • Preheat broiler to high.
  • Arrange garlic, bell peppers, chile, and bread on a foil-lined baking sheet. Drizzle vegetables with 1 tablespoon oil.
  • Broil, turning occasionally, until vegetables are nicely charred and softened and bread is toasted, about 8 minutes for peppers and garlic and 4 minutes for bread.
  • Transfer peppers and chile to a medium bowl; cover with the used foil and let steam.
  • Tear bread into small pieces. Peel garlic. Finely chop bread, garlic, and almonds in a food processor.
  • Peel, stem, and seed peppers and chile.
  • Add remaining 1/4 cup oil, peppers and chile, vinegar, paprika, salt, and tomato to processor; process until almost smooth.
  • Serve at room temperature or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days.
  • Grilling the vegetables:
  • Prepare the grill for a single zone, medium heat.
  • Prepare the vegetables for grilling. With tubular veggies such as zucchini, carrots, and potatoes I recommend planks vs. slices as they’re less likely to slip through the grill grates. 
  • Toss the vegetables with 2-3 tablespoons of canola oil or olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Toss again.
  • Place vegetables on the grill and cook until tender, turning periodically to create the grill marks. Tender veggies (such as asparagus and zucchini) will take less time to become tender – about 5 minutes. Denser vegetables like potatoes and carrots require more time on the grill – maybe 10 minutes. Keep a close eye on them.
  • If desired, the vegetables can be grilled a few hours ahead of serving time and served warm or at room temperature. 
Romesco Sauce
What's your favorite treatment for summertime veggies? Tell us in the Comments
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Dad's On Deck in the Kitchen

6/18/2017

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PictureElden Johnson, thinking up his next Franken-meal
My dad and I shared a love of tasty food, if not the actual cooking of it. Whenever we would grocery shop together we'd linger in the bakery section, ogling the pies and pound cakes, and then virtuously wheel our cart to the vegetable aisle instead. (One or the other would sneak back prior to check-out and surreptitiously add a sweet goodie to the rest. 'How did that get in there?')

​When I started cooking for pleasure, and later writing about it, Dad couldn't understand the appeal. "It takes so much time. Why bother making it fresh when you can buy it pre-packaged?" He was happy to sample my experiments but never understood the joy of mastering a detailed recipe.

​He did, however, take great pride in mixing up his own unique Franken-meals and detailing them for friends and family. "I take a carton of tomato soup, add a big spoonful of tabbouleh, maybe a dab of hummus or leftover oatmeal, frozen Brussels sprouts, and a handful of raisins. Mmm-mm, good stuff!"

​So maybe that's where I got it from, this urge to play around in the kitchen and share the results. While I definitely do not miss Dad's patchwork soup concoctions, I do indeed miss having the opportunity to cook for and share a meal with my father.

​Wishing a happy and delicious Father's Day to all!

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Fish for Dinner: Cedar-Planked Salmon with Mustard Dill Sauce

6/14/2017

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Cedar-Plank Salmon with Mustard Dill Sauce
Cedar-planked salmon with mustard dill sauce -- oh yeah, smoky goodness!
The Fish for Dinner feature chronicles my education in the ways of fish-cookery. I grew up avoiding fish other than sticks and was well into adulthood before adding the real deal into my diet, usually at a restaurant. The impetus to cook more fish at home comes from joining a sustainable fish program through Hooked on Fish. I’ll tell you what we made and how we liked it, plus occasionally a few tips and tunes too.

It’s Copper River salmon season, friends! This tasty wild-caught salmon from the cold Alaskan waters has a short season – mid May through late June – so connoisseurs of this prized fish know to get ready and cook ‘em if you got ‘em. This fish with its bright red flesh has a strong flavor – not for everyone, but if you like it you love it.

The Occasion: Casual dinner party for friends and family. Because the salmon is special, why not elevate the meal just a bit and make it a party?!

The recipe is quick and easy enough for a weeknight family dinner (remember to soak the planks early in the day!) and works well with any type of salmon, although the Copper River variety is extra special. 
Why This Recipe? Three reasons which allow the special characteristics of the fish to shine through:

1) Cedar planks on the grill;
2) Simple treatment for the fish itself;
​3) Sauce on the side.
Serve With: The salmon should be the star of the show so stick with simple veg and grains on the side. And we won't say no to a nice glass of cold, crisp white wine. Some folks prefer a light red with salmon - pick one that's more earthy than fruity to help cut the richness of the fish/sauce combo.

The Verdict: Using cedar planks on the grill imparts a nice smokiness to the fish. The fish itself packs a lot of intense flavor. Creamy dill sauce offers a rich, decadent complement to the fish - each diner may use as much or as little as they please. The original recipe from Foodista calls for mustard in the dill sauce. I’m a huge mustard fan, but couldn’t taste it at all in this dish, so either increase the quantity or leave it out entirely.

Even though the Copper River salmon season will soon be coming to an end, this recipe works nicely with all types of salmon and/or other meaty fishes like swordfish. The sauce is fantastic with baked potatoes and grilled veggies. Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
Print The Recipe- Cedar-Planked Salmon with Mustard Dill Sauce
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Cedar-Planked Salmon with Mustard Dill Sauce
Recipe source: Foodista
 
INGREDIENTS:
  • 4 salmon fillets (about 1 lb total)
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon grated lemon rind
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives or chopped green onion
  • 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard (or more!)
  • 1 pinch salt
  • 1 pinch pepper

​For the Dill Sauce:
  • 1 cup sour cream
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped cucumber
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill or ½ tsp dried dill weed
  • 2 teaspoons minced fresh chives or minced green onion
  • 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
  • 1 pinch salt
  • 1 pinch pepper
 
DIRECTIONS:
  • Soak two 12- x 7-inch (30 x 18 cm) untreated cedar planks in water for at least 1 hour or for up to 24 hours.
  • Place salmon fillets on top of each plank.
  • In small bowl, whisk together oil, lemon rind and juice, chives, mustard, salt and pepper; brush some over salmon.
  • Place planks on grill over medium-high heat; close lid and cook, brushing with remaining lemon mixture for about 20 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with fork.
  • Dill Sauce: Meanwhile, in small bowl, combine sour cream, cucumber, dill, chives, salt and pepper.
  • Serve fish fillets with dill sauce.
Cedar Planked Salmon with Mustard Dill Sauce
What's your favorite fish for summer grilling? Tell us in the Comments
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Savory Bites: Watermelon-Strawberry Gazpacho

6/12/2017

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Watermelon-Strawberry Gazpacho with Fresh Mint, Basil, and Basil Oil
Watermelon-Strawberry Gazpacho garnished with Fresh Mint, Basil, and Basil Oil
Maybe I should have titled this Savory Sips, as this cold summer soup can either be swigged from a cup or spooned from a bowl. Either way, you’re in for a bonanza of summertime flavor.

The Occasion: First course for a dinner party – which is how I served it a few weeks ago; or as the main event for a light lunch or supper, sharing the placemat with a simple piece of grilled fish.

Why This? Inspiration comes from Restaurante Amelibia in Laguardia, Spain, where we enjoyed a marvelous lunch during a wine tour in the Rioja region during a recent vacation. (Read more about our Spain getaway here – Barcelona and San Sebastián; Bilbao and wine tour recap to come.) I doctored up an excellent recipe from Food Network to more closely match the fruit-forward gazpacho we had there.

Serve With: Herb-flecked flatbread or crackers, or a small salad of baby greens. Something with a bit of bite or chew to it, in contrast to the silky smooth texture of this sophisticated gazpacho. 
Watermelon-Strawberry Gazpacho served in vintage cups
Watermelon-Strawberry Gazpacho
Set the Table: Vintage tea cups are a fun way to serve this cold soup.

​If the cups are sturdy enough, chill them in the refrigerator before ladling the soup and serving. 
The Verdict: This gazpacho was a big hit at a recent dinner party, receiving kudos and requests for the recipe. Although it takes some time – pressing the soup through a fine-mesh strainer takes longer than you think – it is not at all difficult, and is more than worth the effort. I’ll make it again this summer, hopefully while strawberries are still in season. If they don’t look good when you visit the market, just increase the quantity of tomatoes and watermelon – one additional cup of each.  
Print The Recipe- Watermelon-Strawberry Gazpacho
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Watermelon-Strawberry Gazpacho
Recipe slightly adapted from Food Network Magazine
 
INGREDIENTS:
  • 3 medium tomatoes, preferably heirloom varieties, chopped
  • 3 cups diced seedless watermelon
  • 2 cups hulled, chopped strawberries
  • 1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped
  • 1 yellow bell pepper, chopped
  • 1 medium shallot, sliced
  • 1/3 cup loosely packed basil and mint, plus small leaves for topping
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
  • 3 tablespoons champagne vinegar
 
DIRECTIONS:
  • Place the tomatoes, watermelon, strawberries, cucumber, bell pepper, shallot, basil and mint in a large bowl. Season with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and pepper to taste. Stir in the olive oil and vinegar.
  • Puree the tomato mixture in a blender, in batches if necessary. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, pressing to extract any liquid; discard the solids and season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, about 1 hour.
  • To serve, top the soup with the small herb leaves, half a strawberry, and a drizzle of olive oil.

​Tasty Tip: Use basil-infused oil to really amp up the flavor.

What's your favorite beat-the-heat recipe for summer? Tell all in the Comments.
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The Rain in Spain - Travelogue Part 2 - San Sebastián

6/9/2017

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Playa de la Concha, San Sebastián
Playa de la Concha, San Sebastián
Ready for more highlights of our recent trip to Spain? We've got photos, travel tips, recommendations and more. In the Part 1 post we covered Barcelona (you can find it here).

Next we'll explore the Basque Country, north and west of Barcelona, on the coast of the Bay of Biscay. We spent four days each in San Sebastián, a charming seaside city known as a foodie paradise, and Bilbao, home to the famed Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim Museum. (Bilbao and the Rioja wine region will be covered in Part 3 of the travelogue.)
As dedicated foodies ourselves, we’ve chosen to borrow the ‘small bites’ concept that is so popular in Spain (tapas, pintxos, and other bar snacks) as the format for our post. 
​
Tapas: Small Spanish savory dishes, typically served with drinks at a bar. Origin: Tapa literally means ‘cover, lid’ (because the dishes were given free with the drink, served on a dish balanced on, therefore ‘covering’, the glass). (Source: Oxford Dictionaries)
​
Pintxos: Pronounced peen-chos, pintxos are Basque snacks served in bars, resembling tapas. the main difference between pintxos and tapas is that pintxos uses toothpicks to avoid the food top from falling off the bread slice bottom. (Source: YourDictionary.com)

​

​Before we begin our exploration of San Sebastián, how about some tunes? Claro que sí, señores y señoras.

​Please enjoy Miles Davis’s masterpiece Sketches of Spain as you read on.
Why San Sebastián? This lovely seaside resort town is largely unknown to many Americans but quite popular among European holiday-seekers. Here’s why:
  • Best beaches – Playa de la Concha is consistently named among the best urban beaches in all of Europe. Soft clean sand, turquoise waters, stunning views, and a pedestrian-friendly boardwalk with separate bike lanes all along the way. The other beaches in town – Zurriola (the surfers beach) and Ondaretta – are pretty great too.
  • Disneyland for foodies – With a restaurant scene in possession of more Michelin stars than most cities five times its size, San Sebastián has been on the radar of food-lovers for years. And it’s not all high-end, dress for dinner, fancy food, no. The down-to-earth pintxos bars are where the real action is. Think bar-hopping but with fantastic finger food as the goal, not a wicked good buzz. More on this later.
After the go-go pace of Barcelona, we were ready to slow things down, relax and enjoy San Sebastián in a leisurely fashion. Graced with (mostly) pleasant weather, we laced up our shoes and went walking all along the beachfront(s) and the river. Slow promenades are the ultimate pastime for the locals too!

​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
​
At the far end of Ondaretta Beach you’ll find a trio of rusty iron sculptures titled Comb of the Wind (Peine de Viento) by famous Basque sculptor Eduardo Chillida embedded into the sea wall. They’re even more raw and beautiful in person. ​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
In the same part of town is a rickety old funicular which carries passengers, creaking and squealing (the mechanism, not the riders) all the way to the top of Monte Igueldo. Breathtaking views await you there and an old-school amusement park – closed when we arrived but photo-ready nonetheless.

​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
There are beautiful artworks, architecture, gardens, parks, and public spaces all around town. Please enjoy a few street scenes from this casually sophisticated small city. ​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
Now let’s talk about the pintxos. These bar snacks are several notches above the bowl of nuts or pretzels typically offered at a U.S. tavern. Most San Sebastián spots will have a variety of cold pintxos available for self-service on the counter - anchovy-stuffed olives, sardines and peppers on bread, tuna and tomatoes on bread, and the like. The “on bread” part is typical but not absolute. The skewers securing the meat/fish to the bread are also important; when it’s time to settle the bill the barman counts your skewers and charges you accordingly.

But hot pintxos are where the real culinary magic happens. Prepared to order, each bar has its specialty and it’s in your interest to find out in advance. For example, Gandaria's prepares an exquisitely simple (and simply delicious!) hunk of grilled sirloin on bread with a dab of roasted peppers on top. OMG so good. Another place called Senra features a skewer with grilled foie gras and a giant mushroom doused in cream sauce. Wow! Charred octopus (or pulpo) is another snack worth seeking out. The idea is to never stop moving during a pintxos crawl -- have a bite and a sip with your friends at Bar A, then mosey on to Bar B to sample another pintxo and a zurito (small beer). Don't sit down - not only because there are no chairs but also because it's time to go-go-go to the next place. 

So what does one drink at a pintxo bar? Wine, beer or cider. ​Txakoli is a tart, young, white wine with a strong mineral taste and slight effervescence. It’s not for everyone, but I found it to be the perfect accompaniment for fresh seafood. 

We booked a pintxos tour for our first night in San Sebastián and highly recommend it as a great beginning to your visit. A friendly Basque native named Esther from San Sebastián Pintxos Tours showed us around the Parte Vieja (Old Town), helped us navigate the pintxo scene, and provided recommendations for follow-up visits. Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
On the more formal end of the dining spectrum, we had a marvelous meal at Kokotxa, a one Michelin star restaurant located in the Old Town. Not only was the food delicious and creatively presented, the customer experience was also warm and lively - guests weren’t afraid to laugh out loud in this comfortable room - a nice contrast to some fine dining establishments where I’d be afraid to make a cutlery mistake in front of the waiter. Menu nerds like us might want to check out what we had; details at the end of this post. For the most part, we did not take photos of our meal, we prefer to stay in the moment and not distract our fellow diners. But we couldn't resist taking a snap of the pretty dessert - Chocolate Ganache with Red Berries - shown here alongside a few other food photos from SS. 

​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
Who's ready for a cocktail? ​We began the discussion of Spain’s passion for Gin-Tonics in our Barcelona post but I have to say – if G&Ts are popular in BCN, they’re like religion here in SS. Preparation of the drinks is taken quite seriously, following a precise and almost ritualistic methodology. The bartender chooses from a wide variety of aromatics to flavor the drink based on the gin you select from dozens of options. Our favorite GT joint - La Gintonería - fully embraces the performance art elements including dry ice and a spritz of essential oils on the outside of the glass to engage your senses beyond just taste.

​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
We'll stop here because we think you've got the picture -- San Sebastián is a magical mix of relaxing respite and hotspot for food and beverage creativity. Highly recommended vacation destination! There's plenty to do here for a week or more, especially if day trips to nearby areas are included. Bilbao is about an hour away, and will be the focus of our next post - Travelogue Part 3 - coming soon. 

As a final farewell, please enjoy a San Sebastián sunset. ​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
* As promised, here's the menu for our fantastic dinner at Michelin-star restaurant Kokotxa: 
  • Amuse bouche: Blini with baby prawns
  • Bread sticks with mustard/mayo dipping sauce
  • Starter for Ann: Tomato soup shooter 
  • Starter for Ilise: Red pepper ice cream with goat cheese crumbles
  • First course for Ann: White asparagus
  • First course for Ilise: Mackerel tartare
  • Second course for Ann: Fish hook hake, rigatoni, crab, saffron and sea broth
  • Second course for Ilise: Fish of the day – Grouper
  • Dessert - Red fruits and chocolate ganache, custard apple and smoked whiskey gelato
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What’s for Dinner? BLT Pasta

6/8/2017

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BLT Pasta
BLT Pasta -- quick, easy, and delicious! Perfect for a busy weeknight dinner
The Occasion: A quick family-pleasing meal for a busy weeknight. It’s got all the basic ingredients for success – pasta, cheese, and BACON! Plus it’s fast and easy, so let’s get started. 
Why It Works: Pure comfort food. It’s a mashed-up version of two old favorites – pasta with tomato sauce, and a bacon-lettuce-tomato sandwich. Just kicked up a notch or three.
Serve With: Green salad, or steamed broccoli. There are plenty of carbs in this dish already thanks to the pasta, so you don’t really need bread … but a piece of garlic bread alongside might be awesome, just sayin’. Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
The Verdict: Easy-peasy and extremely satisfying. We’ll be making this again, for sure. The recipe calls for penne and watercress but I used rotini and arugula. Turned out fine. As with most pasta dishes, you can make substitutions with ease. The key thing is to use some pasta water at the end to help create a nice saucy finish.  
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BLT Pasta
Recipe from Cooking Light, adapted with permission from Back Pocket Pasta: Inspired Dinners to Cook on the Fly, by Colu Henry
 
INGREDIENTS:
  • 1 tablespoon plus 3/8 tsp. kosher salt, divided
  • 10 ounces uncooked mezze rigatoni or penne pasta
  • 2 ounces slab bacon, cut into 1/2-inch dice
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 pound red or yellow cherry tomatoes, halved (about 3 cups)
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided
  • 5 ounces watercress, coarsely chopped
  • 1 ounce pecorino Romano cheese, grated

DIRECTIONS:
  • Bring a large saucepan filled with water and 1 tablespoon salt to a boil. Add pasta and cook 10 minutes or until al dente. Drain in a colander over a bowl, reserving 1 cup pasta cooking liquid.
  • Place bacon and olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-low; cook 8 minutes or until the bacon is crisp, stirring occasionally. Remove bacon from pan (do not wipe out pan).
  • Heat pan over medium. Add tomatoes, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper to drippings in pan; cook 5 minutes or until tomatoes are tender and almost melt, scraping pan to loosen browned bits. Stir in half of the cooked bacon.
  • Increase heat to medium-high. Add pasta to pan; toss to coat. Add 1/2 cup reserved pasta cooking liquid and watercress, stirring until watercress wilts. Add 1/4 to 1/2 cup reserved pasta cooking liquid to pan as needed to loosen sauce.
  • Divide pasta mixture among 4 shallow bowls; sprinkle evenly with remaining 1/8 teaspoon salt and remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper.
  • Top servings evenly with remaining half of bacon and cheese.
BLT Pasta
Twice the fun - BLT Pasta times two!
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The Rain in Spain - Travelogue Part 1 - Barcelona

6/1/2017

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Parc Guell and Barcelona view
Parc Guell, designed by Antoni Gaudi, and a beautiful view of Barcelona (look, no rain!)
Hola, mi amigos! We’ve recently returned from a dream vacation to Spain. Two weeks, three cities, total of five diverse regions to explore. Wow! The culture, the architecture, churches, museums, all the walking. Friendly people, both locals and fellow travelers. Food and drink that more than lived up to its stellar reputation. Foodie trends in the areas where we stayed – Barcelona/Catalonia, and the Basque Country (San Sebastian/Bilbao) – include gin-tonics (the ‘&’ is silent), tapas, and pintxos: small plates and even smaller bites eaten while standing in a crowd of friends, new and old. 
​
Pintxos bar in San Sebastian
Pintxos bar in San Sebastian -- just look at all the options!
Spain is a fascinating mix of people, languages, culture and food, but if there is one thing all Spaniards share, it's a love of food and drink.
                                                                                 -- Jose Andres,  World renowned chef
We’re going to borrow the small bites concept and apply it to the format of this España travel post. We will serve up mouthwatering morsels of local flavor to illustrate a full tasting menu of our Spanish vacation. Destination details, cultural cues, foodie finds, and travel tips. All will be revealed. Forks up, and away we go! First off, let’s get our lingo squared away. 
​
Tapas: Small Spanish savory dishes, typically served with drinks at a bar. Origin: Tapa literally means ‘cover, lid’ (because the dishes were given free with the drink, served on a dish balanced on, therefore ‘covering’, the glass). (Source: Oxford Dictionaries)

Pintxos: Pronounced peen-chos, pintxos are Basque snacks served in bars, resembling tapas. the main difference between pintxos and tapas is that pintxos uses toothpicks to avoid the food top from falling off the bread slice bottom. (Source: YourDictionary.com)
​
Picture

​Next, we need some music. How about a little tango by the Barcelona Symphony Orchestra?

We heard them perform an excellent program of Mozart and Haydn at the beautiful L’Auditori concert hall. ​

​TRAVEL TIP: It's fun to participate in the local cultural scene aside from yet another museum or made-for-tourists event. Check an online events calendar for neighborhood festivals or free concerts in the park. 

Okay, now we’re ready, vámonos.
​
First impressions of Barcelona, the first stop on our holiday:
  • Stunning architecture, modern and centuries-old, side by side with urban decay, graffiti, and the detritus of daily life. Interesting to see that Barcelona does not attempt to “Disney-fy” the tourist areas by making everything clean and sparkly all the time. This is what a modern city with an ancient heritage looks like in 2017.
  • Loud and busy, like most cities. Our rental apartment in a beautiful old (uninsulated) building faced the street, so I can tell you that garbage pick-up begins at 5am and traffic revs up around 7:00.
  • Scooters everywhere. My theory is that Barcelona bebès are issued a motorcycle helmet and a starter-pack of cigarettes (also everywhere) as soon as they vacate the birth canal. 
Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
That Antoni Gaudí fella – what a character, eh?! A brilliant, creative, obsessive visionary of an architect who left his mark all over this beautiful city. We were lucky to visit a few Gaudí sites – La Sagrada Familia, Parc Guell, and La Pedrera. They’re all extremely crowded with tourists and more tourists, but if you’re in Barcelona you need to visit them anyway. Be sure to allow enough time for exploring the colorful and imaginative work of an artist who saw the world through his own distinct lens.

Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
Gaudi was only one of many architects and artists to make a splash in Barcelona. There are many fine museums and public art displays around the city. We visited the Picasso Museum, theMuseu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya (MNAC), and The Fundació Joan Miró. On an excursion to the Costa Brava we visited Salvador Dali’s museum in Figueres. What. A. Trip. 

TRAVEL TIP: Your stamina may be better than mine, but as a general rule visiting more than one museum per day is a baaaaad idea. Mix up the routine with some nature/outdoor activities. 

Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
The people of Barcelona love to spend their free time outdoors, whether it's strolling La Rambla in the evening or sharing space with the pigeons at Placa Catalunya or congregating with friends in the squares and stand-up bars in El Born and the Gothic Quarter. One of the city's green treasures is Parc de la Ciutadella near the Arc de Triomf, a well-used park with fountains, sculptures, gardens, and playgrounds. We also spotted The Mojito Man, a local entrepreneur plying his wares to the sun-worshippers all over the lawns. We did not wave him down, but gave it careful consideration. 
Now let's discuss the food and drink. Yes, it's true that meals start later and last longer than we Americans are accustomed to -- 90 minutes or more for lunch (with wine), and 9pm is about the earliest time you can make a dinner reservation -- but never fear, you will not go hungry during the "off hours" in this foodie-friendly city. You can always find a tasty snack at one of the many bodegas, tapas joints, and pintxos bars that stay open seemingly around the clock.  
  • We made only one dinner reservation in advance and it was our least favorite meal in Barcelona. My advice is to browse in person and be spontaneous in your dining choices. 
  • That said, there's an excellent restaurant in the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya called Oleum - highly recommended for lunch during your museum crawl. 
  • A big advantage to renting an apartment vs a hotel stay is the ability to keep fruit, wine, cheese, charcuterie, etc. on-hand for breakfasts and light suppers. It's convenient and economical.
  • Grocery store wine in Barcelona is really cheap and surprisingly delicious! 
  • As I mentioned earlier, gin-tonics  are very popular in Spain and so is vermouth. We tried them both and went back for more G&Ts. Interpret that as you will. 
  • Jamon Iberico (ham) is a delectable specialty of this region. Be sure to try it at least once. And if you are like us, you'll bring home a delicatessen's worth of vacuum-sealed meat in your suitcase.  

​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.

Finally, a few travel tips if you're planning a trip to Barcelona:
  • This is a city best explored by walking. Comfortable shoes will help you navigate those cobblestone streets much more easily than stilettos, just sayin'. 
  • Buy your skip-the-line tickets in advance for the big attractions such as Sagrada Familia. 
  • That said, do allow yourself enough freedom in the schedule for spontaneity. The unplanned moments often turn out to be the most memorable.
  • The hop-on hop-off (HOHO) double-decker tourist bus is a great way to gain an overview of the city on Day 1 or 2 of your trip.
  • Although most locals speak English, it's courteous and much appreciated to be prepared with a few phrases in Spanish or Catalan. 

We will now say "Adios y Gracias" to Barcelona, and plan to return soon with another post about Basque Country, the next stop on our awesome Spanish vacation. Until we meet again! 
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