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Drinkies: Spanish-Style Gin Tonics

8/3/2017

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Spanish-Style Gin Tonic
Spanish-style Gin Tonic -- yes, that's a big glass for a big thirst!
Oh say, have you heard that we took an amazing trip to Spain this year? Regular readers are rolling their eyes right now as we’ve been none-too-shy about sharing our adventures and photos on the blog (Barcelona, San Sebastián, and Bilbao/Rioja wine region).
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We’ve also prepared a few Spanish delicacies for our friends back in the States (and documented it of course): Strawberry-Watermelon-Tomato Gazpacho, Romesco Sauce with Grilled Veggies, and Patatas Bravas.
Today … today it’s time to take you deep into the world of serious gin and tonics. No, not the low-effort American version with a sad wedge of lime perched on the rim of the glass. We’re talking about Spanish-style cocktails so hardcore they eschew the “and”. It’s just gin tonic. We don’t need no stinkin’ ampersand!
The preparation of a good Spanish Gin Tonic is a cross between church and performance art. From the specialized glass* (a giant balloon) to the carefully curated aromatics paired with each specific gin (dozens available to choose from) to the dry ice (yes!) and the spritz of essential oils for awakening all the senses – there’s a good reason why gin tonics are the “it” drink in Spain, and the summertime cocktail of the season at our house!
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* The Copa de Balon glass: A Copa de Balon is a type of glass that is perfect for drinking gin and tonics. The glass is typically bulbous in shape, like a balloon, and sits on a stem almost like a red wine glass. The Copa de Balon glass dates back to the 1700s in the Basque region of northern Spain. While the English would use a long Tom Collins glass, the Spanish – who are said to be the largest drinkers of gin in Europe – developed the ‘balloon cup’ instead.
                                                                                                                                    -- Metro.co.uk
Below are a few photos from La Gintoneria Donostiarra in San Sebastián – home of the very best GTs we had the pleasure of consuming while in Spain. We are all about the research, so in the name of science we sampled a few different versions: 
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Monkey 43 gin: 1 blackberry; 2 juniper berries; 2 lime strips; 1 dash lavender bitters; Spritz of some essential oil inside the glass; Dry ice treatment

Blackwoods gin: 3 juniper berries; 1 small piece of cinnamon; 1 lime slice; 2 orange peel strips; 2 lime peel strips; 1 dash of lime bitters; Spritz of some essential oil; Dry ice treatment

Our favorite was made with a Spanish gin – Gin Mare – which features Mediterranean flavors. Recipe below.
Please click on the photos to enlarge them.

Naturally our House Bar Chef Ilise had to recreate this wondrous tipple at home. Here’s how she did it.
  • Gin = Gin Mare, a Spanish gin flavored with olives, thyme, rosemary and basil
  • Tonic = Fever-Tree NOTE: Fever Tree makes several flavors of tonic water. They’re all good and any would work well in this cocktail. We’re partial to the original blend, Fever-Tree Premium Indian Tonic Water. 
  • Aromatics = Arbequina olives; cardamom pods; juniper berries; fresh rosemary sprigs; lime and orange citrus strips
  • Bitters: Citron bitters are authentic; we used orange bitters which work just as well
  • Ice = Precisely 7 oblong cubes are used in the Spanish recipe. We took some liberties with the quantity and shape, but it is “A Must” to use large, solid, slow-melting ice cubes.
Please click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions. Note: photos are from two different cocktail hours. I think you'll get the gist.
The Verdict: Due to the large glass, volume of tonic and number of cubes, the finished cocktail tastes light and refreshing like a spritzer rather than a heavy-alcohol drink. The blend of aromatics is subtle, complex, and entirely delightful. You can happily sip this gin-tonic for a good long time, which fits perfectly with the Spanish style of socializing, drinking, and dining – there’s no rush, sit and relax, take your time, and ENJOY!
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Spanish-Style Gin Tonic
Recipe source: Ilise Goldberg, based on technique observed at La Gintoneria Donostiarra in San Sebastián, Spain
Yield: One cocktail

INGREDIENTS:
  • 2 ounces Chilled Gin (for this recipe Gin Mare is the preferred gin)
  • 4 Juniper berries
  • 1 Small Spanish Green Olive
  • 1 Rosemary Sprig
  • 2 Cardamom Pods
  • 2 Strips of Orange Zest
  • 2 Strips of Lime Zest
  • 1 Dash Orange Bitters
  • 1 Bottle of Cold Fever-Tree Tonic Water (200ml approx. 6.8 ounces)

DIRECTIONS:
  • Place the juniper berries, cardamom pods, rosemary sprig and olive in the bottom of a Copa de Balon glass* or wide bottomed Burgundy/pinot noir glass. (Both glasses hold somewhere around 20-26 ounces). 
  • Pour the cold gin into the glass. 
  • Zest the orange and lime over the glass so the essential oils drop into the glass and blanket the glass; then drop the zest into the glass. 
  • Add many solid ice cubes (I have used six or seven 1-ounce square cubes or three-four 2-ounce round cubes).
  • Using a long spoon mix the ingredients well with the ice to chill and then run the spoon over the top of the glass. 
  • Slowly pour the tonic water into the glass. Using your long spoon gently stir the cocktail to mix the drink.  
Spanish ham, cheese, and olives
Spanish ham, salami, cheese and olives make a great accompaniment to Spanish-style Gin Tonics
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The Rain in Spain – Travelogue Part 3 – Bilbao

6/23/2017

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Guggenheim Bilbao
Guggenheim Bilbao - you can see the Jeff Koons sculpture Tulips, and Tall Tree and the Eye by Anish Kapoor
I am trying to hang onto that vacation glow, basking in the memory of warm sunny days spent wandering charming Spanish towns for as long as I can. We’ve been home for over a month now and the realities of day-to-day life are a little too real, but it takes no more than a glance at the vacation photos and I am transported once again to Spain’s spectacular Catalonia and Basque regions.

Come with me, won’t you, to peruse the highlights of our four days in Bilbao, the final stop on our dream vacation. Read previous posts about our adventures in Barcelona and San Sebastián by clicking on the names. 
During the planning phase of this trip we were frequently asked, “Why Bilbao?” The short answer is: to visit the  Frank Gehry designed Guggenheim Museum by – it truly is spectacular. More on that shortly. 
But there’s more to Bilbao than the Goog. This city, the unofficial capital of Basque Country, is also known for its Casco Viejo (Old Quarter), foodie scene (pintxos are big here too), other museums, and vibrant greenspace along the river and in city parks.

Another city made for walking, we explored the charming twisty-turny walkways of the Old Quarter; strolled the expansive Doña Casilda Iturrizar Park near the Fine Arts Museum; and meandered along the Nervión River. Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
Spectator of Spectators by Equipo Cronica,Spectator of Spectators by Equipo Cronica, Bilbao Fine Arts Museum (photo: Ilise Goldberg)


​Although the Guggenheim receives top billing, Bilbao’s Fine Arts Museum – home to an important gathering of works by Basque artists and sculptors and a rotating schedule of visiting exhibitions – is quite impressive and worth a visit.

​We saw a Renoir exhibit on the theme of ‘Intimacy’ in addition to the museum’s permanent collection.

After snapping this quick shot we learned that photos are prohibited, but I think you’ll agree that this one is worth it.

Let’s get to the main event: the Guggenheim Bilbao. It’s easy to spend a whole day here and be richly rewarded for your time. TRAVEL TIP: Purchase tickets in advance, receive a specific entry time, and you’ll be issued an audio guide – no questions about whether you want it or not. Believe me, you want this. The audio guide is extremely well done, providing juicy details about the museum’s architecture, the exhibits, and the artists – not only the permanent collection but also the special exhibits.

Abstract Expressionism was on display during our visit, a movement about which I thought I knew a few things. May I just say, WOW, mind blown (in the best possible way), this was an amazing museum experience, engaging and informative on every level.

TRAVEL TIP: Fortify yourself with a lunch break in between exploring the special exhibit and permanent collections. With three onsite restaurants - a one-Michelin star fine dining restaurant (Nerua); the elegant yet approachable Bistró; and a casual snack bar – there’s something for everyone. Highly recommend the Bistró for a gourmet meal that is delicious and not too fancy.

Photos of the artworks are not permitted, but the museum’s atrium, exterior, and outdoor sculptures/ installations are fair game. Please click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
The other highlight of this part of our journey was a day-long private tour in the Rioja wine region, about an hour outside of Bilbao. We visited three wineries, had a sumptuous long lunch (with wine of course!), stopped for numerous photo ops and history lessons, and became friends with our wonderful guide Marta and driver Inaki. There are several tour companies working in this region; we enjoyed our experience with Thabuca Wine Tours.

I didn’t know much about Spanish wines before the trip and I still have a lot to learn. Luckily I’m a motivated student, and we brought home some fascinating study material. As in – sound of cork popping, luscious Rioja wine pouring into a glass … wait, what was I saying? I got distracted by my studies.

​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
We returned from our tour to find a beautiful sunset over Bilbao, the perfect finishing touch on the final day of our vacation. An early flight the next day sent us homeward bound, back to reality, and away from a little slice of Spanish paradise. After two weeks and three cities, I was ready to sleep in my own bed, but simultaneously wanted to stay on this holiday forever. We’ll be back someday, of that I am certain. 
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Sunset in Bilbao
What are your favorite vacation activities – tours? museums? nature? shopping? Tell us in the Comments!
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The Rain in Spain - Travelogue Part 2 - San Sebastián

6/9/2017

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Playa de la Concha, San Sebastián
Playa de la Concha, San Sebastián
Ready for more highlights of our recent trip to Spain? We've got photos, travel tips, recommendations and more. In the Part 1 post we covered Barcelona (you can find it here).

Next we'll explore the Basque Country, north and west of Barcelona, on the coast of the Bay of Biscay. We spent four days each in San Sebastián, a charming seaside city known as a foodie paradise, and Bilbao, home to the famed Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim Museum. (Bilbao and the Rioja wine region will be covered in Part 3 of the travelogue.)
As dedicated foodies ourselves, we’ve chosen to borrow the ‘small bites’ concept that is so popular in Spain (tapas, pintxos, and other bar snacks) as the format for our post. 
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Tapas: Small Spanish savory dishes, typically served with drinks at a bar. Origin: Tapa literally means ‘cover, lid’ (because the dishes were given free with the drink, served on a dish balanced on, therefore ‘covering’, the glass). (Source: Oxford Dictionaries)
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Pintxos: Pronounced peen-chos, pintxos are Basque snacks served in bars, resembling tapas. the main difference between pintxos and tapas is that pintxos uses toothpicks to avoid the food top from falling off the bread slice bottom. (Source: YourDictionary.com)

​

​Before we begin our exploration of San Sebastián, how about some tunes? Claro que sí, señores y señoras.

​Please enjoy Miles Davis’s masterpiece Sketches of Spain as you read on.
Why San Sebastián? This lovely seaside resort town is largely unknown to many Americans but quite popular among European holiday-seekers. Here’s why:
  • Best beaches – Playa de la Concha is consistently named among the best urban beaches in all of Europe. Soft clean sand, turquoise waters, stunning views, and a pedestrian-friendly boardwalk with separate bike lanes all along the way. The other beaches in town – Zurriola (the surfers beach) and Ondaretta – are pretty great too.
  • Disneyland for foodies – With a restaurant scene in possession of more Michelin stars than most cities five times its size, San Sebastián has been on the radar of food-lovers for years. And it’s not all high-end, dress for dinner, fancy food, no. The down-to-earth pintxos bars are where the real action is. Think bar-hopping but with fantastic finger food as the goal, not a wicked good buzz. More on this later.
After the go-go pace of Barcelona, we were ready to slow things down, relax and enjoy San Sebastián in a leisurely fashion. Graced with (mostly) pleasant weather, we laced up our shoes and went walking all along the beachfront(s) and the river. Slow promenades are the ultimate pastime for the locals too!

​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
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At the far end of Ondaretta Beach you’ll find a trio of rusty iron sculptures titled Comb of the Wind (Peine de Viento) by famous Basque sculptor Eduardo Chillida embedded into the sea wall. They’re even more raw and beautiful in person. ​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
In the same part of town is a rickety old funicular which carries passengers, creaking and squealing (the mechanism, not the riders) all the way to the top of Monte Igueldo. Breathtaking views await you there and an old-school amusement park – closed when we arrived but photo-ready nonetheless.

​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
There are beautiful artworks, architecture, gardens, parks, and public spaces all around town. Please enjoy a few street scenes from this casually sophisticated small city. ​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
Now let’s talk about the pintxos. These bar snacks are several notches above the bowl of nuts or pretzels typically offered at a U.S. tavern. Most San Sebastián spots will have a variety of cold pintxos available for self-service on the counter - anchovy-stuffed olives, sardines and peppers on bread, tuna and tomatoes on bread, and the like. The “on bread” part is typical but not absolute. The skewers securing the meat/fish to the bread are also important; when it’s time to settle the bill the barman counts your skewers and charges you accordingly.

But hot pintxos are where the real culinary magic happens. Prepared to order, each bar has its specialty and it’s in your interest to find out in advance. For example, Gandaria's prepares an exquisitely simple (and simply delicious!) hunk of grilled sirloin on bread with a dab of roasted peppers on top. OMG so good. Another place called Senra features a skewer with grilled foie gras and a giant mushroom doused in cream sauce. Wow! Charred octopus (or pulpo) is another snack worth seeking out. The idea is to never stop moving during a pintxos crawl -- have a bite and a sip with your friends at Bar A, then mosey on to Bar B to sample another pintxo and a zurito (small beer). Don't sit down - not only because there are no chairs but also because it's time to go-go-go to the next place. 

So what does one drink at a pintxo bar? Wine, beer or cider. ​Txakoli is a tart, young, white wine with a strong mineral taste and slight effervescence. It’s not for everyone, but I found it to be the perfect accompaniment for fresh seafood. 

We booked a pintxos tour for our first night in San Sebastián and highly recommend it as a great beginning to your visit. A friendly Basque native named Esther from San Sebastián Pintxos Tours showed us around the Parte Vieja (Old Town), helped us navigate the pintxo scene, and provided recommendations for follow-up visits. Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
On the more formal end of the dining spectrum, we had a marvelous meal at Kokotxa, a one Michelin star restaurant located in the Old Town. Not only was the food delicious and creatively presented, the customer experience was also warm and lively - guests weren’t afraid to laugh out loud in this comfortable room - a nice contrast to some fine dining establishments where I’d be afraid to make a cutlery mistake in front of the waiter. Menu nerds like us might want to check out what we had; details at the end of this post. For the most part, we did not take photos of our meal, we prefer to stay in the moment and not distract our fellow diners. But we couldn't resist taking a snap of the pretty dessert - Chocolate Ganache with Red Berries - shown here alongside a few other food photos from SS. 

​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
Who's ready for a cocktail? ​We began the discussion of Spain’s passion for Gin-Tonics in our Barcelona post but I have to say – if G&Ts are popular in BCN, they’re like religion here in SS. Preparation of the drinks is taken quite seriously, following a precise and almost ritualistic methodology. The bartender chooses from a wide variety of aromatics to flavor the drink based on the gin you select from dozens of options. Our favorite GT joint - La Gintonería - fully embraces the performance art elements including dry ice and a spritz of essential oils on the outside of the glass to engage your senses beyond just taste.

​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
We'll stop here because we think you've got the picture -- San Sebastián is a magical mix of relaxing respite and hotspot for food and beverage creativity. Highly recommended vacation destination! There's plenty to do here for a week or more, especially if day trips to nearby areas are included. Bilbao is about an hour away, and will be the focus of our next post - Travelogue Part 3 - coming soon. 

As a final farewell, please enjoy a San Sebastián sunset. ​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
* As promised, here's the menu for our fantastic dinner at Michelin-star restaurant Kokotxa: 
  • Amuse bouche: Blini with baby prawns
  • Bread sticks with mustard/mayo dipping sauce
  • Starter for Ann: Tomato soup shooter 
  • Starter for Ilise: Red pepper ice cream with goat cheese crumbles
  • First course for Ann: White asparagus
  • First course for Ilise: Mackerel tartare
  • Second course for Ann: Fish hook hake, rigatoni, crab, saffron and sea broth
  • Second course for Ilise: Fish of the day – Grouper
  • Dessert - Red fruits and chocolate ganache, custard apple and smoked whiskey gelato
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The Rain in Spain - Travelogue Part 1 - Barcelona

6/1/2017

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Parc Guell and Barcelona view
Parc Guell, designed by Antoni Gaudi, and a beautiful view of Barcelona (look, no rain!)
Hola, mi amigos! We’ve recently returned from a dream vacation to Spain. Two weeks, three cities, total of five diverse regions to explore. Wow! The culture, the architecture, churches, museums, all the walking. Friendly people, both locals and fellow travelers. Food and drink that more than lived up to its stellar reputation. Foodie trends in the areas where we stayed – Barcelona/Catalonia, and the Basque Country (San Sebastian/Bilbao) – include gin-tonics (the ‘&’ is silent), tapas, and pintxos: small plates and even smaller bites eaten while standing in a crowd of friends, new and old. 
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Pintxos bar in San Sebastian
Pintxos bar in San Sebastian -- just look at all the options!
Spain is a fascinating mix of people, languages, culture and food, but if there is one thing all Spaniards share, it's a love of food and drink.
                                                                                 -- Jose Andres,  World renowned chef
We’re going to borrow the small bites concept and apply it to the format of this España travel post. We will serve up mouthwatering morsels of local flavor to illustrate a full tasting menu of our Spanish vacation. Destination details, cultural cues, foodie finds, and travel tips. All will be revealed. Forks up, and away we go! First off, let’s get our lingo squared away. 
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Tapas: Small Spanish savory dishes, typically served with drinks at a bar. Origin: Tapa literally means ‘cover, lid’ (because the dishes were given free with the drink, served on a dish balanced on, therefore ‘covering’, the glass). (Source: Oxford Dictionaries)

Pintxos: Pronounced peen-chos, pintxos are Basque snacks served in bars, resembling tapas. the main difference between pintxos and tapas is that pintxos uses toothpicks to avoid the food top from falling off the bread slice bottom. (Source: YourDictionary.com)
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Picture

​Next, we need some music. How about a little tango by the Barcelona Symphony Orchestra?

We heard them perform an excellent program of Mozart and Haydn at the beautiful L’Auditori concert hall. ​

​TRAVEL TIP: It's fun to participate in the local cultural scene aside from yet another museum or made-for-tourists event. Check an online events calendar for neighborhood festivals or free concerts in the park. 

Okay, now we’re ready, vámonos.
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First impressions of Barcelona, the first stop on our holiday:
  • Stunning architecture, modern and centuries-old, side by side with urban decay, graffiti, and the detritus of daily life. Interesting to see that Barcelona does not attempt to “Disney-fy” the tourist areas by making everything clean and sparkly all the time. This is what a modern city with an ancient heritage looks like in 2017.
  • Loud and busy, like most cities. Our rental apartment in a beautiful old (uninsulated) building faced the street, so I can tell you that garbage pick-up begins at 5am and traffic revs up around 7:00.
  • Scooters everywhere. My theory is that Barcelona bebès are issued a motorcycle helmet and a starter-pack of cigarettes (also everywhere) as soon as they vacate the birth canal. 
Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
That Antoni Gaudí fella – what a character, eh?! A brilliant, creative, obsessive visionary of an architect who left his mark all over this beautiful city. We were lucky to visit a few Gaudí sites – La Sagrada Familia, Parc Guell, and La Pedrera. They’re all extremely crowded with tourists and more tourists, but if you’re in Barcelona you need to visit them anyway. Be sure to allow enough time for exploring the colorful and imaginative work of an artist who saw the world through his own distinct lens.

Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
Gaudi was only one of many architects and artists to make a splash in Barcelona. There are many fine museums and public art displays around the city. We visited the Picasso Museum, theMuseu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya (MNAC), and The Fundació Joan Miró. On an excursion to the Costa Brava we visited Salvador Dali’s museum in Figueres. What. A. Trip. 

TRAVEL TIP: Your stamina may be better than mine, but as a general rule visiting more than one museum per day is a baaaaad idea. Mix up the routine with some nature/outdoor activities. 

Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
The people of Barcelona love to spend their free time outdoors, whether it's strolling La Rambla in the evening or sharing space with the pigeons at Placa Catalunya or congregating with friends in the squares and stand-up bars in El Born and the Gothic Quarter. One of the city's green treasures is Parc de la Ciutadella near the Arc de Triomf, a well-used park with fountains, sculptures, gardens, and playgrounds. We also spotted The Mojito Man, a local entrepreneur plying his wares to the sun-worshippers all over the lawns. We did not wave him down, but gave it careful consideration. 
Now let's discuss the food and drink. Yes, it's true that meals start later and last longer than we Americans are accustomed to -- 90 minutes or more for lunch (with wine), and 9pm is about the earliest time you can make a dinner reservation -- but never fear, you will not go hungry during the "off hours" in this foodie-friendly city. You can always find a tasty snack at one of the many bodegas, tapas joints, and pintxos bars that stay open seemingly around the clock.  
  • We made only one dinner reservation in advance and it was our least favorite meal in Barcelona. My advice is to browse in person and be spontaneous in your dining choices. 
  • That said, there's an excellent restaurant in the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya called Oleum - highly recommended for lunch during your museum crawl. 
  • A big advantage to renting an apartment vs a hotel stay is the ability to keep fruit, wine, cheese, charcuterie, etc. on-hand for breakfasts and light suppers. It's convenient and economical.
  • Grocery store wine in Barcelona is really cheap and surprisingly delicious! 
  • As I mentioned earlier, gin-tonics  are very popular in Spain and so is vermouth. We tried them both and went back for more G&Ts. Interpret that as you will. 
  • Jamon Iberico (ham) is a delectable specialty of this region. Be sure to try it at least once. And if you are like us, you'll bring home a delicatessen's worth of vacuum-sealed meat in your suitcase.  

​Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.

Finally, a few travel tips if you're planning a trip to Barcelona:
  • This is a city best explored by walking. Comfortable shoes will help you navigate those cobblestone streets much more easily than stilettos, just sayin'. 
  • Buy your skip-the-line tickets in advance for the big attractions such as Sagrada Familia. 
  • That said, do allow yourself enough freedom in the schedule for spontaneity. The unplanned moments often turn out to be the most memorable.
  • The hop-on hop-off (HOHO) double-decker tourist bus is a great way to gain an overview of the city on Day 1 or 2 of your trip.
  • Although most locals speak English, it's courteous and much appreciated to be prepared with a few phrases in Spanish or Catalan. 

We will now say "Adios y Gracias" to Barcelona, and plan to return soon with another post about Basque Country, the next stop on our awesome Spanish vacation. Until we meet again! 
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Memphis in the Meantime

10/5/2016

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Graceland Estate in Memphis
Graceland Estate in Memphis Image: Michael Reed
We recently moseyed our way to Memphis for a long weekend with friends Kim and Chris. Beale Street, BBQ, and the blues. Ducks (at the Peabody) and the iconic DA haircut favored by Elvis (many images of said hairdo at Graceland). The National Civil Rights Museum (worth the trip for this powerful experience alone). We were total tourists and loved every minute of it.
​
Our flexible rule for these weekend jaunts is to pick a destination with plenty to do but we won’t feel heartbroken if we’re unable to see every last thing. We identify a few Must-do’s and let the rest unfold as it will. But this time Memphis knocked us off our feet and we’re already talking about a return visit to explore even further.  
​I won’t subject you to our itinerary step by step because it probably replicates everyone else’s Memphis itinerary. Beale Street for live music, drinks, barbecue, and shopping – check! Graceland – check!
Instead I’ll share just the highlights and a few tips/observations. 
​But first, to get us in the proper frame of mind, I recommend you get yourself a tall glass of the cold beverage of your choice and hit the Play arrow on our Memphis playlist.

​All of the musicians have a Memphis connection, either their birthplace or as pivotal to their career.

Pay special attention to a couple of tracks from local musician Eric Hughes who is a tour guide by day and a rockin’ bluesman at night. We caught his Saturday night set at the King Palace Café and can attest – he’s the real deal.

What Made Memphis Special:

Experiences: Ultimately that’s what you’re there for, right? There’s no shortage of things to do, and we had to pick just a few - Graceland; Peabody Ducks; Beale Street; Civil Rights Museum; Mojo Bus Tour - but wait until next time: Stax Museum; Overton Park; Gibson Guitars, etc.
  • Recommend the Mojo Bus Tour with local musicians as the tour guides, interspersing tunes with interesting tidbits about the city’s culture and history. We don’t usually do group tours/bus things, but this was a good way to get an overview of Memphis and tap into the musical tradition right away.
  • Highly recommend carving out several hours for the National Civil Rights Museum, located in the old Lorraine Motel where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was shot. The well-designed museum has plenty of interactive, multi-media displays covering enormous swaths of history from before and after Dr. King’s assassination. We were there for 3 hours and could easily have spent 2 more – but it’s intense. Be ready.
Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
Food: If you’re in Memphis you’re going to eat barbecue. No two ways about it. It’s everywhere, and everybody’s got their favorite. Don’t fight it, just jump in and chow down.
  • BBQ: We went to Rendezvous – famous for their dry rubbed BBQ style – and to Central Barbecue. Both were messy and delicious and I won’t say No to second helpings at either establishment. Highly recommend.
  • We had a terrific dinner at McEwen’s in the Downtown neighborhood, just a few blocks away from Beale Street. A little fancier than the BBQ joints but not at all stuffy, the menu was creative yet familiar with many tantalizing options.
Music: Known as the Home of the Blues and the Birthplace of Rock and Roll, there’s no question that Memphis is a live music town. Go on and get you some. A stroll up and down Beale Street offers numerous options. Follow your tapping feet and find what you like.
  • BB King’s has a slicker stage/production set-up than most and highly engaging cover bands. Silky O’Sullivan’s has a large patio plus goats that climb a tower. There are clubs galore too numerous to mention.
  • As mentioned above, we really enjoyed hearing the Eric Hughes Band at the King Palace Café. It’s a large club with only a small crowd that night. Hidden gem on Beale Street? 
Tips – Take ‘em or Leave ‘em:
  • It’s going to be hot. We had mid-90s in late September. Be prepared.  
  • Also be prepared for long lines, aggressive photo sales, and way more gift shops than necessary at Graceland. We went about 2:00, avoiding peak times right when it opens and at noon, and still spent a good 40 minutes before setting foot in Graceland.
  • People line up super-early to see the Peabody ducks do their red carpet parade twice a day. Mezzanine level viewing is the way to go, and even that was crowded.
  • Memphis has a nice trolley system, and the Downtown area is totally walkable. We saved money by not renting a car and only used a taxi/Uber for trips to Graceland and the airport. 
It turned out that the Memphis LGBTQ community's Pride Parade was that weekend. We cheered loudly from the sidelines and marveled at how much smaller the event is than the estimated one million revelers who turned out for Chicago's parade in June. That's okay, spirits were high with Rainbow Power!

Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.​
Chris and Kim are excellent travelling companions. Prior to Memphis we’ve explored Louisville and Kansas City together and had a great time in the process. Next up on the list? It’s too soon to say although there are several great contenders: Minneapolis, Pittsburgh, Little Rock, Baltimore – maybe even your town (we’ll look you up!)
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One thing’s for sure, wherever this Fearless Foursome travels to next, we’re going to find the fun, food, music, and good times that makes the city special and then we’ll tell you all about it. Stay tuned, travel safely, and tell us all about your favorite travel destinations in the Comments. 
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I Love New York (in small doses, every so often)

6/2/2016

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Nick Walker, Love Vandal
Nick Walker, Love Vandal at 17th and 6th Ave, Manhattan Image: MuzikAnimal
A couple weeks ago an NYC business trip came up for Ilise, conveniently adjacent to a weekend, so I tagged along and we made it a party. We’ve learned over time that our best Big Apple strategy is to schedule just a few things, avoid overdoing it, and leave the rest up to chance. I must say, it worked like a charm this time!
  • 4 days/3 nights  
  • 1 Broadway show (Fun Home – dark but funny and excellent)
  • 1 dynamite Jazz at Lincoln Center concert – a 14-piece band playing the Ray Charles Songbook with featured vocalists Diane Schuur and the Raelettes. You can watch a high quality webcast of the event here. Highly recommend!
  • 2 restaurants I’d be happy to visit again: Colicchio & Sons Tap Room (Chelsea) and Gabriel’s (Columbus Circle) where the personable host is almost more delicious than the menu
  • 1 new favorite cocktail spot: Bookmarks Lounge on the 14th floor of the Library Hotel on Madison Avenue. There’s a clubby library theme indoors and two small outdoor patios perfect for sipping lovely craft cocktails and admiring the nighttime skyline

We also enjoyed 2 uniquely NYC experiences, both even better than anticipated:

Chelsea Gallery Crawl: Went for the fabulous new Cindy Sherman exhibit at Metro Pictures. Stayed for:  
  • David Hockney’s Yosemite Suite of iPad drawings at PACE
  • Richard Serra’s large steel sculptures at the Gagosian Gallery
  • Desire Obtain Cherish’s show titled Servant to Infinite Distraction at the Unix Gallery – Lovely floral still life designs which upon close viewing reveal  that they’re made of colored pill capsules 

Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
Also worth noting:
  • Songs and the Sky: An Exhibition of Art + Music at the Bruce Silverstein Gallery
  • Leda and the Swan – Hyperrealism courtesy of Carole Feuerman at the C24 Gallery
  • And the list wouldn’t be complete without the taxidermy wolves posed in an action diorama in the entry to Jim Kempner Fine Art. The installation by Andy Rosen is titled UNPACK.

Still more art: The next day I amused myself at MoMA while Ilise worked, and was especially moved by a powerful installation titled the Mapping Journey Project by Bouchra Khalili which uses video clips of migrants telling their stories while outlining their journeys on a map. 

Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
The 2nd Annual Harlem Eat-Up! Festival held in Morningside Park featured an abundance of food and wine tastings, cooking demonstrations, artistic and cultural presentations, and more. The event’s chief organizer is Chef Marcus Samuelsson who was everywhere – introducing guest chefs on the demo stage, directing traffic for the booth vendors, and posing for selfies with his many adoring fans.

We saw a cooking demonstration with Chef Aarón Sanchez who brought helpers onstage including his mama and a child who had appeared on the TV show Chopped Jr. And another one which paired master mixologist Karl Franz Williams with TV personality and everyone’s favorite homegirl, Carla Hall. They were delightful! We even heard a Hootie Hoo!

Click on the photos to enlarge them and read the captions.
All in all, we had a wonderful time at the Harlem Eat-Up! Festival. If you’re in town mid-May next year, make it a point to attend, you won’t be sorry.

As for us, it was a most excellent weekend, capped off with people-watching on a lazy afternoon in beautiful Bryant Park before heading home. Thank you, NYC! We’ll be back again soon because we just can’t stay away. 
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Banksy & Colossal Media's I Love NY Mural
Banksy & Colossal Media's I Love NY Mural Image: Original Anthem
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Adventures in France – Part 2: Burgundy

6/1/2015

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After a wonderful week in Paris Ilise and I parted ways with mom-in-law Ina, each headed onward for more travel. Ina joined a tour group in Amsterdam while Ilise and I went to the Bourgogne (Burgundy) wine region, specifically the town of Beaune which became our home base for three delightful days.

Ilise and I are wine people (we know a little, collect a bit, love to sip and serve it to friends) and this is definitely wine country, a mecca for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay lovers. Everything revolves around the wine and the industries that support it. Perfectly fine with us, although we did try a few non-wine related activities just to prove we could and met with mixed success. More on that during the detailed travelogue after the jump. 

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Adventures in France – Part 1

5/25/2015

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One year ago this month Ilise and I took a dream vacation to France. A week in Paris and three days in the Bourgogne wine region. Need I say … heavenly. This trip had been more than a dozen years in the making. Last time we thought we were Paris-bound we bought a house instead. Need I say … hello, home maintenance and bye bye, disposable income.

What an amazing adventure it was, never to be forgotten although it already seems long ago and far away. It’s been quite a year in the interim with events both good and bad filling the time, but when I stop and reflect on that magical, much-anticipated experience I recognize how lucky I was (and still am) to have had the opportunity. May I share some of it with you? We’ll start with Paris first, and the wine country experience will come in a follow-up post.

I’ll start with the Top Trois Takeaways from Paris and then work backwards into a more traditional travelogue. And photos … yes, there will be pix and plenty of them!

  1. Apartment rental vs hotel – totally worth it
  2. Don’t overschedule – allow time for people-watching and spur of the moment decisions 
  3. Best food we had in Paris = deviled eggs. Yes. Quel surprise! 

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